[Cosmetic Ingredients] Saponified Formulation - One of the cleansing ingredients

Everyone wash their face. Everyone wash their face every day. Most people wash their face more than once a day. Due to self-conditioning and the external environment, we inevitably need to use auxiliary cleaning tools.

When I was young, wash my face with soap, rub it clean, it was clean, and there was a lot of foam. As we grow older, more and more ads tell us that the face cannot be washed with soap, whether you are young or old, whether you are male or female. Because soap contains "soap". Some people think that this is only a stunt for businesses, and some people are convinced. So, can soap wash your face? If you are unfamiliar with the "saponification formula", you should read this article carefully.

The cleansing products on the market today are divided into two major categories: one is a saponification formula, and the other is a surfactant formulation. In simple terms, saponification formulas are inexpensive, compared to the higher cost of surfactant formulations.

We all know that our skin is weakly acidic and has a pH of about 5.5 . The saponification formula for face wash products is made by reacting various fatty acids with strong alkalinity. The PH value is about 9~10 and it is quite irritating to the skin. Large, long-term use will wash off too much sebum and cause the skin to lose its protective barrier, causing great damage, making your skin too sensitive and prone to redness and dark spots.

How to distinguish whether it is saponification formula? Of course, look at the ingredients, since the soap is a combination of fatty acids and strong bases, then the representatives of fatty acids: lauric acid, myristic acid; representatives of strong alkali: sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine. Any ingredient containing the above ingredients is saponified without exception.

First, fatty acids:

1 , C12(Dodecanoic Acid, Lauric Acid)

Chinese name: lauric acid , 12- acid , dodecanoic acid

Cas No : 143-07-7

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Sage Advice

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DERMAdoctor

Lauric acid is a raw material for making soaps and various surfactants, esters, higher fatty alcohols and the like. Although slightly irritating to the mucous membranes, it is itself non-toxic and, most importantly, it accelerates the dissolution of oils in water and is therefore commonly used in shampoos and soaps.

2 , Myristic acid (C14, Tetradecanoic Fatty Acid)

Chinese name: tetradecane fatty acid , myristic acid , tetradecanoic acid

Cas No : 544-63-8

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Sage Advice

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Sage Advice

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DERMAdoctor

Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Due to its irritating nature, it should not be used frequently in facial skin contact products. The rejection index is 3/5 (the higher the better ) .

Second, strong alkali

1 , Sodium Hydroxide

Chinese name: Sodium hydroxide

Molecular weight: 39.9971

Cas No : 1310-73-2

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Zhang Liqing teacher

2 , KOH (Potassium Hydrate, Potassium Hydroxide)

Chinese name: Potassium hydroxide

Cas No : 1310-58-3

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Zhang Liqing teacher

Sodium hydroxide is a strongly alkaline substance, a water-soluble white solid, used to adjust the pH , and is often added to phytochemicals for saponification to make soap.

Due to its irritating nature, it should not be often found in make-up products. The rejection index is 5/5 (the higher the better ) .

3 , Triethanol amine (TEA, TEA, Triethanoamine, Triethanolamide)

Chinese name:Triethanolamine

Molecular Weight: 149.188

Cas No : 102-71-6

Acne

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Zhang Liqing teacher

Triethanolamine is used to adjust the pH ( which is weakly alkaline ) and can easily cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. The Cosmetic Cosmetics Evaluation Committee (CIR) pointed out that it is safe in washing products, but long-term contact products need attention, and it is recommended to use it carefully. , It will produce saponification reaction with fatty acid.

Due to its irritating considerations, it should not be often found in makeup remover products. The rejection index is 4/5 (the higher the better ) , the possibility of causing facial paralysis, and the occurrence of facial paralysis is 2/5 ( higher is not more Good ) .

(Source: CosDNA )

See it, in theory, only oily healthy skin can use saponified products, dry skin, sensitive skin, and purulent acne skin must be avoided. However, in fact, many oily skins have water shortages, that is, the more washed and dried, the more dry and oily they are. So, even if you are a big oil field, don't wash your face with soap! Bathing should avoid using soap.

However, there are now some facial soaps on the market. They only have the shape of a soap. They are not really soap-based formulas. On this point, it mainly depends on the ingredients. For example, there is a fragrant block in the supermarket, which looks like soap, which is sold at the price of soap, but it is actually composed of an amino acid surface active ingredient that is more suitable for facial cleansing than ordinary facial cleansers and the like.

At the same time, although the cost of soap-based products is low, do not think that the more expensive the face wash products are, the less likely they are to contain saponified ingredients. A foreign brand skin care products, counter price ¥ 280/125ml , but in fact it is also semi-saponin.